City Guide - Lyon 4: Croix Rousse, as seen by Caroline

Updated: Jun 9, 2019

The Croix-Rousse neighborhood, nestled on top of the plateau that overlooks Lyon from the north, is a delightful and delicious place to call home. Known as “The Hill that Works” (as opposed to the “Hill that Prays”), the 4th arrondissement was constructed in the 1800s to house the silk workers and their looms. Today it’s known for its charming, quaint vibe, its epic market, and of course, the views.

Things to See

1. The Views - There are many different views over the city from the Croix-Rousse, from the Gros Caillou you can see the Alps and Mont Blanc on a clear day. There are plenty of spots where you’ve got beautiful views of the Basilica, but my favorite is from Rue de l’Alma.

Rue de l’Alma, 69004 Lyon

2. The Stairs - You can be lazy and get the metro up, but I think a special part of the Croix-Rousse are all of the windy little staircases. They’re all different, and they’re all magical. My favorite is the one that run off the side of Place Bellevue and wraps around a huge old tower, part of an old military complex.

Place Bellevue, 69004 Lyon

3. Traboules - It’s not just Vieux Lyon where you find these secret spots. The Croix-Rousse has plenty of stairs that cut through the big blocks of canuts (the name for the 19th Century silk workers as well as the buildings that they lived and worked in), with some opening onto huge secret courtyards. Passage Thiaffiat and Cour de Voraces are two of the easiest to access.

Passage Thiaffiat and Cour de Voraces, 69001 Lyon

Things to Do

1. Maison des Canuts - Learn about Lyon’s long and storied relationship with silk, with a focus on the 19th century silk boom. This museum shows how they wove the silk, complete with giant looms, and explains the importance of the Croix-Rousse canuts as the birthplace of modern worker’s rights.

10 Rue d'Ivry, 69004 Lyon

2. Marché de la Croix-Rousse - Every morning except for Monday there is a market along the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse as well as the little Place de la Croix-Rousse. Depending